How can I test my toyo's fuel pump? laser 56.
Screw in sump pump strainer cover is stripped. Is there any way to fix this?
Hi Irwin, my blower motor making much noise. Probably the bearing. Would it be too difficult for a retired aircraft mechanic to replace the bearing or order the complete unit. Dave
Actually there is no way to fully test the fuel pump unless you have a replacement. You can test the coil to see if it is open or shorted with an ohm meter. The fuel pumps rarely fail and it is usually a sensor or fuel issue causing the pump not to run.
I brought it to a "toyo shop" last year it was saying "EE 6" he worked on it and it is still doing the same "EE 6". I took the carb apart and poke a hole in the screen at the bottom of the pick up tube and it didn't do anything. I am VERY mechanicaly inclned can you please help me out.It is a Lazer 73 model. Please give me a call if you can give me any advise.
Matt, Before you destroy the heater by "poking around" I recommend that you check:99% of the time the problem is NOT the fuel controller. 1) Carbon bridge on flame sensor2) warped flame ring touching flame ring3) Blocked fuel inlet to combustion chamber... Most likely! Let me know what you find.
Hi Irwin, I spoke with your sales rep John and since he would not be in the office he said I should talk to you about purchasing a rebuilt 422 and servicing my 21. I called and just got the office voice mail. I'm a road driver so I'm not home except for Monday mornings for sure. So Early Mondays would be the best bet. I do need directions to your place. I can get to 17 north no problem so I would need the exit ETC./and a contact phone # so I could get a hold of someone if needed.ThanksBob Campanelli
Irwin,I have an Oil Miser OM-180. It started up this season but it is not heating the water adequately. I am under the impression that I need to replace the high limit thermistor. Where do I purchase this and how much is it?Thanks,Jim
I have an Oil Miser OM-180. It started up this season but it is not heating the water adequately. I am under the impression that I need to replace the high limit thermistor. Where do I purchase this and how much is it? I am currently replacing a blown 7 amp fuse, could this be the repair.
If the fuse didn't fix it, call the office. If anything is wrong with a sensor you would get an error code. My guess is that your circulator is not going on.
I am trying to find a circulation fan motor for a toyostove Laser 73. The fan has died and there are no service techs in NH for this item. Do you sell them?
In stock. order online or call to order
I have a laser 56, and I am looking for the fuel line for the removable tank.part number 20475925. Don't need the tank just the fuel line. can you help me? Thanks
Available with tank only
I need the flexable fuel line for the laser 56, need a price and if avail
I have the 36-UFF B Toyotomi hot water heater. We have been having trouble with it shutting off on us while in use for the last 6 months. If you restart it a few times eventually it will run. After awhile it takes more and more restarts and becomes difficult to even shower. I also have a hair salon in my home so I really NEED the hot water to be dependable. The heater is only about 8 years old. How long should they last - my last one- not Toyotomi - lasted 15 years. I called the service people where I bought it - they came out on 5/20/11 and changed the nozzle; on 7/26/11 changed the nozzle; 0/10/11 changed the fuel filter & cleaned empty burner sensor; 9/26/11 cleaned nose cone and by passed empty burner switch. Now on 11/17/11 it is time to call them again!! This thing is nickle and diming me to death. I use kerosene and live in a double-wide trailer. Could there be a problem with the fuel or lines? It seems funny that after they are here it seems to work just fine for a month so whatever it is seems to be cumulative after they refresh things. Please help if you can. They are stumped and I cannot afford to buy a new one - pay cut at work. If I have to I will go back to electric.
You may have a week optical flame sensor... No way to tell without being at the heater so you will need to depend on your local repair guy.
I have a laser 60 toyo and am on my 4th combustion chamber in as many years. Has toyo made any improvements to the glass design or not? It is my understanding this is a common problem. any input would be nice. Thank you.
Is it a problem using the stove with a crack in the glass cylinder. Replacing them is very expensive at $350 each.
I don't know why you are having such a high failure rate. It may be the fuel you are using. That stove only runs pure kerosene. Keep on your dealer and try to get Toyotomi to warranty the parts for you.
I have a om-148 replaced nozzle,nosecone,adjusted fuel pump, it is still burning dirty. lots of smoke out chimney bad smell comming from unit.cleaned blower. still will not keep up with hot water use. stumped?
You may be plugged up with soot. That model build soot deposits in the heat exchanger and you must strip the unit totally apart to clean them. Not a job for a homeowner unless you have a full shop and know how to get dirty... very dirty.
The parts came Saturday they were the right ones. You were right about the bearing being hard to change. It took about four hours and everything went well except for some sticky screws, thanks to the impact screwdiver they came loose. The bearing was defective. The heater worked well and the fan was quite. Thanks for the parts and your knowledge of the problem, you saved us alot money.
I have a removable tank and fuel line for a lazer56 used 1 time I dont need it any longer as I have a permant outside tank plumbed into my heater make me an offer if you need a 2nd tank or replacement Up state NY near syracuse
I have a 2 year old laser 73. Fuel filter froze and was replaced. ee2 and ee6 code comes up. unit is getting fuel. pump is clicking. flame is Lazy. what is you suggestion??? thanks
Could be a lot of issues... but I would guess you still have water in the line, bottom of your tank or in the fuel bowl.
we have laser73 in Alaska changed the fuel filter was very plugged and full of ice, we pushed the on/off button ee2 was our code we cleaned the igniter the numbers went away but now it is not blowing-fan? please any thing would help
See above reply...
We have 4 Toyo 30's going, plus a 5th one kept serviced and handy as a swap unit.
Fuel is #1. We use Goldenrod Waterblock filters at the tank along with the OEM minifilter at the unit, 3/8" copper throughout. Vertical inches from bottom of tank to Toyo fuel inlet is within the OEM recommendations in the manual.
That said, we are noting increased EE6 or EE2 fuel supply errors, and am wondering if deposits have built up inside the fuel lines. We have some exellent 4# Psi guages at each unit on the fuel inlet, but the manual is silent as to what is the acceptable pressure range measured right at the fuel inlet.
#1: What is your opinion of what the fuel-pressure range on a Toyo 30 should be?
#2: If fuel-line buildup is suspected, what would you suggest to clean out the line? (The lines are short enough that they could simply be replaced, except that it's been running down to -40f currently and I'm not excited about making repairs out in the weather.
I love these Toyos, especially with #1 oil cost locally now exceeding $4.00 a gallon. As they were being selecteed, my opinion was it looked best for the units to size them so they ran on "HIGH" full-time during the coldest weather, and TOYO 30's do. What's your opinion of this approach? I felt that should minimize carbon buildup, and also extend heat-exchanger life by reducing the flexing from frequent expansion and contraction. (We had a forced air furnace that drove us nuts with "Smells smoky!" tenant complaints. The THIRD heating technician called in persisted, and discovered a hairline crack hidden at the very back of the heat-exchanger. (He's now the first tech called in for service calls.)
I'm a retired municipal-security salesman, not a technician, but up here you have to be prepared to cope with climate.
Thanks from Alaska, Dick
I need a replacement circulation fan motor for my OM-22.
Call to order or order online
I need a replacement push button switch for a Monitor 41. I've been told they are obsolete. Can you help with this?
I need a replacement circulation fan not listed in the parts section. I have a om22 giving me a code 12. I cleaned up everything first and got the same code. A closer look I saw the fan was not working. Ran the electric straight nothing.
I have a OM-22...The digital LED screen is not working-completely dark...The unit powers up and heats great,but without the digital read-outs I'm lost.
Any clues would be welcome....Thanks!
Does anyone ever get a reply lately from "Irwin" ? Just curious...seems like the last time "Irwin" answered a question here was back in November 2011....
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I have a om 180 giving me some problems. I had to repair a leaking Hi limit thermistor.I unplugged all the connections,oil lines, ect. removed the burner fixed the leak. While I wad it apart I pm'd the burner put it back together. Since then I can't get the pump to pump fuel. System has a transfer pump, day tank, and purged air. Any help would be appriated .
The OM-180 is a very troublesome and finicky heating system. Be careful that you do not over tighten the sensors or you will crack the thin flange and have a permanent leak. Make sure you have it all plugged in correct on the board and bleed the air out of the fuel filter in the unit. Also make sure that you put the connectors on the vacuum sensor correctly, it is on the upper right and the clear hose goes to it. There are three places to plug the two wires into the sensor and I have made the mistake too.
I'm trying to find a replacement circuit board for my NS 1750. The stove is in perfect shape but on occasion showing signs of circuit board failure (the indicator LED's work intermittently). Is there any hope for my trusty little boat stove/heater? Thanks!
The NS 1750 circuit boards are trouble! I have had a number of issues over the years with them. Not recognizing the flame and getting "stuck" in the start cycle. All board related issues. All Toyotomi tells you is to replace the burner mat... NOT the problem. If you can not do board level repair you need to get a new board.
Can you recommend anyone who works on Toyotomi Laser 30 heaters near Kenai?
I recommend Sanford Services Toyo repair and parts
907-235-7612 he is very fair and worth the trip to Homer.
I am looking for a burner ring and joint packing for a laser 56 along with a heat chamber gasket for this model do you have these parts available and how much $? RSVP
Yes, order online or call to order
I have a Laser 73 serial no. 20922 T07FF73K. I recently rebuilt it and it has fuel leaking out of either the reset knob on the fuel sump or the small copper fuel tube with the rubber grommet and hold down fork. Is there a rebuild kit for the fuel sump available? Also when installing the fuel nozzel gasket, i wasn't sure if the gasket had to slide over the guide tube or if it just pressed up against it. when the heater is burning fuel i can see yellow flames just around the fuel nozzle area the rest of the burner ring is blue flame. Is this normal operation? Please advise. Thanks
Sound like you need someone who knows what they are doing. Usually there is only ONE problem with a heater that does not work. UNTIL someone who does not know what is wrong works on it and CREATES many more problems. Get someone who knows how to figure out the ONE problem and undo the created problems.
Hi I just wanted to say that I recently had my Toyostove Laser 73 serviced by All Around The House and they did a wonderful job. Irwin made the stove look and run like new (he really does exist Tony). He kept in contact with me through the entire repair (largest part was replacing te blower motor), and was very informative. When I picked up the stove he took the time to show me the old blower, and walked me through the operating cycles to show me that it was working. Thanks for everything Irwin.
Hey David,it's great to know that there really is an Irwin....If you see Irwin again,please ask him to : REPLY TO THE QUESTIONS !
Hey Tony! What is your question?
Hi Irwin,thanks for the reply.....My question is here, posted 5-16-2012.
I HAVE A LASER 73 THE THERMISTER ROOM SENSOR JUST DONT READ CORRECT ROOM TEMP WHAT TO DO
Replace it or relocate it. It may be in a draft.
My Toyo 30 has exhaust fumes when the blower is operating. My tech is having trouble figuring it out. Any suggestions?
The biggest issue with fumes with that model is the igniter fails internally. It leaks exhaust gas out through the center by the wire. you can often see the rubber discolored too... My test: Remove the igniter, make sure it is cold and see if you can suck on the end that goes inside. If bad you will be able to suck and the suction will leak in from the back of the igniter. If good the suction will hold your tongue. Replace if leaking to stop the smell..
You may have a defective igniter. Crack often develop where the wires connect allowing exhaust gas to escape. If so you need a new igniter.
I have a laser 56, it will not power on. I checked power supply. Any ideas.?
Sounds like you need a fuse or a new main board.
Hi Irwin, I have a OM-148 water heater and my friend worked on it and took apart the fuel pump for some reason and the springs before he could find out which order they went. and he might have took everything apart than back, what should i do? can i repair it or do i need a fuel gauge to do it? its not making the empty fuel sound anymore.
You will need to reset the fuel pressure. You will need a guage and the correct T fitting
Hello. I ordered the thermostat for a laser 56 on Dec 2 but have not received it yet. Please contact regarding this matter as I have left several messages.
We sent a replacement. Return the "lost" one if it shows up. Thanks
Hi, Irwin & John ~
I had my Laser 56 in your store in '07 for a tune-up--bought it in '96. It has worked great! Last night, I came home and it was running at maximum against outside temps in the 20's. When I pushed the thermostat back at bedtime, the stove "slowed down" but then quit w/ the EE-6 code. I ran the starting sequence again w/ the same results. This morning, I repeated the sequence. Stove started up, appeared to run fine until it the room reached desired temp, then it shut down again w/ ee6 code. Any suggestions? Will continue using woodstove for now--would have you fix it if I wasn't so far away. Thank you.
Hi Irwin. I have an OM22 with a persistent EE6 code issue. I have treated the 500L of #1 oil with an anti-gel, I have cleaned the fuel filter (it had about 1/4" of water in the bottom), I have cleaned the onboard screen filter (there was a bit of sludge on it), I have checked the flow of oil through the fusible valve and reservoir. I have cleaned the oil supply tube from the reservoir to combustion chamber. I still have EE6 errors. Sometimes the stove runs for 20-30 hours and other times it will only run one or two cycles before the error code. I understand it may be a dirty nozzle or combustion chamber. Can I undertake servicing this myself? (none of my area heating guys know about Toyotomi) Also, should I be checking the onboard reservoir for water or sludge? If so, is it just a matter of careful dis-assembly, cleaning and replacement?
I thank you in advance for your advice.
having an odor problem with our Toyotomi Om 22 - smells like Kerosene when starting up especially - had a local tech replace gaskets and burning pot - still smelling odor What do you think could be the cause, and what should we do now? We put $900 into the repair - very frustrating.
We have an OM-22 and the fan stopped working. I pulled it out and will order a new one as soon as I am sure this one is bad. now that it is out it seems to turn fine and is also tight. what power should I put to it to see if it works. Thanks.
I have a a OM-180 this am all of the sudden it won't run..I realized it had blown a fuse so I reset it and it went on but only for a minute and then blows the fuse again...any ideas?
I have a laser 60at that I bought from you about 8 years ago. I'm looking for an air intake fan and two motor bearings. I see you list the bearings, but not the fan (#20475883). Is this something you can get for me, or do you know where I can get one?
Laser 30 trips 20 amp breaker when i plug it in to a wall outlet. Service cord is good.Ideas? Where can I find a wiring diagram for the Laser 30? Thak you!
I have a Laser 30 running on clear K-1 Kerosene. It leaks combustion fumes at the upper gasket (20479581) just below the heat exchanger. I can't figure out how to get the left & right side panels or the top off so I can remove the heat exchanger and get at the gasket.
I have removed every screw in sight on the front and back, yet the side panels are held firmly in place at the top. Do I have to bend them outward 90 degrees so I can slide them out of hidden slots?
I have some 2000 Degree (F) hi-temp gasket cement. If all else fails, would it do any good to apply it on the outside rim of the gasket all around?
Thanks for your help and ideas!
I have an OM-148. When taking a shower the water is really hot to start with even if you turn the temp down @ the shower valve, and then cools down after a few minutes, and we then adjust the temp up accordingly to keep the temp we want.
Thanks for your help
I just replaced burner ring and mat and motor bearings in a Laser 73. The install went well and the motor sounds great and seems to push plenty of air. However, when I try to start the stove it ignites, runs for a minute then codes out to EE8 and the motor slows down. If I unplug it for a couple minutes then restart the motor powers up and the process repeats. Our local Toyotomi man does not replace motor bearings and says that he just replaces the whole motor box
when they get noisy or spit out the EE8 code. he gave me a unit he was discarding because it was coding EE8 I powered it up and it ran so I put it in my stove and it does the same exact thing.Do you think they both have the same problem , perhaps reassembled something wrong or maybe something else?
thanks for your help
I'm thinking 'revolution sensor' on the motor I've tried both and checked wires/plugs for continuity. Is there a way to test the sensor? I suspect this is my problem. I am unable to locate a replacement searching on-line and it seems that if the sensor is defective, that replacing the whole blower-box to replace one small part is not very cost effective.
I have an OM22, about 10 yrs old. Just today got an EE13 code which points to burner thermistor failure. Can this part be easily replaced? Where is it located? Can i purchase the part through you?
Before this I was getting consistent EE6 codes... I had tried everything to clean the fuel line, the valve, the sump, check the pump, etc. The error only happens when the outside 300Gal tank is below 1/2 full. Do you think this might be a part that needs replacing or a fuel line clogged that only flows well when there is a full tank? Thanks!
what is the difference between om- 22 and om-23 units. thank you fred
hi I have a toyostove laser 73 it is about 15 years old, we are getting a lot of fumes smell throught out the house, it only seems to happen when it is fridged temps outside (anything below zero). what could this be... we have no one in our area that will service these units.. any advice will help...thanks
I HAVE A 73 LASER AND I TRIED RepLACING THE IGNITER AND WHEN I FINISED THE STOVE WOULDNT COMEBACK ON WHEN I REPLACED IT I DONT KN9W IF I BURNT Something UP BUT I UNPLUGGED THE STOVE B4 I STARTED DO U HAVE AND SUGGESTIONS
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I have a OM180 and had a problem with the heatexchanger leaking, replaced with new one and put back together, also have replaced fuel pump and fuel nozzel with new, put back together and now it is smoking allot and smells bad, have checked flew pipe all good there, have checked igniters also, it started up fine ran for about 2 min and then started smoking bad, fan runs fine plenty of air flow. dont know were to go from here.?
This is an answer, not a question for Laser 73 owners with a persistent EE 2 or possibly EE 6 problem.
Because of a severe winter frost heave we had a tank tip over this year (after 13 years here). After restoring the tank and running out of fuel a month later we started having the EE-2 problem, even thought the tank was filled, filters at both ends cleaned, and there appeared to be kerosene feed all the way to the heater.
I did two things which seemed to cure the problem (and I may have had combination of problems that needed both of these).
First I did an igniter cleaning -- this is a matter of pushing and holding the Minute and Hour buttons while the Burner switch is OFF until you get a CL-10 in the digital display.
Then, though I had checked the copper line for kinks after the tank had been restored for position, I didn't notice that there was now a slight short upward bend in the copper tubing just after the tank filter and before running down hill to the house.
Well any rise in a siphon can really slow down fluid flow if an air bubble gets in there, and I don't believe the Lazer fuel pump is has the fluid speed to clear that bubble.
If you've ever watched a siphon of clear tubing, the bubble slows the feed, but doesn't necessarily stop it. So I believe the flow was too slow for the heater, but not a complete blockage -- that's why the sump had kero in it when I checked, but the pump still couldn't get enough fuel to continue combustion without throwing the error code,
Re-bending the copper line for a continuous fall and cleaning the igniter worked to solve all start up problems for my heater.
Hope this helps someone else in a similar situation!
0m-180 leaking heat exchanger how to change is warranty parts only been without heat or hot water 2 wks waiting on parts cold here in canada
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I have an OM22, about 10 yrs old. I can not get the unit to light. I tested the Igniter with a OAM meter connected to each wire and the meter shows no resistance or an open circuit, t is this correct
I have a laser 73 it works good the only problem is the temp sensor if set at 68 the temp climbs to 72, great. Now the problem is the heater will come down to 69 & then not move for ever. If I adjust the temp to 69 the stove comes back on works through the cycle, then stalls at 70.
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Ok so I have a toyostove laser 73....my cabin is 24 X 32....it should more than heat this cabin right? I have it placed at the end of the hall....blowing forward to the front room.....it still seems cold in here and I have it set at 71 degrees....it doesnt seem to blow very hard to get the heat anywhere.....I have placed a fan in front pointed at the ceiling as its plenty warm up there .I have also made sure the ceiling fan is blowing down in the front room....still only seems to get to 68 in the front room....is there a problem with the circulation motor or fan??...... it gives me no other problems or error codes.....
Our Laser 60at leaves a fuel smell when it runs. What should we check to remedy the problem?
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I have a OM-23 about 10yrs old. I get a strong kerosene odor when it starts up but eventually goes away. I have replaced the exhaust/intake fan but still get the odor. Also the heater seems to have lost the high fan speed.
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My Laser 73 has developed a problem that gives an error code of CL6. If I'm lucky I can get it to start but shuts down during the night and can not get it to re start.
I am having a problem with an OM 180, can't get it to start up. All it is doing is clicking, green light will come on, and then right afterward the orange light will come on. Checked the thermistors (20476473 & 20476773) and they have the same resistance with an Ohm meter.
How can glycol enter into the burn chamber of the OM 180?
Laser 30. Had a tech from 100 miles away clean unit, replace burning mat & gaskets. It ran okay for a week then started making grinding squealing sounds. Now dead with EE8 code. Seems time to replace blower motor assembly I'm competent with tools, etc., but is it difficult for first timer to change blower motor assembly? will I be breaking gasket/seals? thanks
how do I replace blower motor assembly on a Laser 30?
I purchased a Laser 73 about 5 years ago. When it first comes on it runs the normal start up then on medium until it reaches my preset temp of 68 then the heater switches to low and the fan shuts down to almost nothing. It tries to make up the 4 degree cut off threshold while running on low and its like it can never catch up. It takes a long time to make it to 72, why does it not run on medium or high until it hits 72. My house is new and 1000 square feet, thermostat is away from heater about 4.5' off the floor.
That is the way my 73 has been operating for the last 9 yrs. The only time I get medium is if Low can't hold the minimum set point, then I get medium for a bit to raise the measured temp by 2 deg above set point.
Ideally, you don't want the Lasers to cycle much.
It is easy to replace the bearings, saving having to buy the expensive motor. Remove the blower cover, take off the fan. From the inside, remove the motor assembly. Remove the bearing caps and get the armature out. You can hold the bearings and tap the armature thru the bearings. Order the factory bearings or go to a bearing house and pick them up. Use a deep well socket that fits the inside bearing race and tap the socket to drive the bearings back into the exact location of the OEM bearings. Reassemble the armature into the motor and bolt the motor back on the rear case of the heater. Install the fan and outer case. That's basically it.
Just wanted to mention keep up the good job!
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We used to blog about this issue. Yet you've made it more clearer.
Replaced blower motor with one you sent. Died after 10 seconds. how can I check if motherboard is bad? Other suggestions? i wired the new blower as it had been before. Thanks
My Toyo 73 (recently cleaned) seems to be both in operating mode as well as either pre or post purge at the same time. My normal temp lamp is lit, my on-off lamp is lit, but my low temp lamp goes from lit to flashing constantly. The 73 will run at a constant low or med to achieve a new (higher)target temp, but the igniter seems to continue firing on a six second cycle even after the target temp is achieved. When loping at the firebox window, the flame flares each time, but then doesn't continue. My flue seems to be collecting carbon. No code, and operation continues, but I've never experience this flaring cycle. Any ideas?
need a bearing part #20479837, igniter 20479518, may be blower moter, 20479518. do you have in stock, live in upstate ny, how long would it take for shipping time. thanks
Wow, this can be considered as the best post I've found today.
Good evening to all and have a nice sleep...
Hello! My om-148 is making a clunking noise that seems to be coming in through the air intake. What can that be? - Rachel & Milan
This is our earlier post. We thought it was the air inlet. The clunking noise is coming from the exhaust pipe.
Hello! My om-148 is making a clunking noise that seems to be coming in through the air intake. What can that be? - Rachel & Milan
Irwin has been our Toyotomi Service technician for over 10 years. He has seen and repaired most of the problem and issues found in these great heaters. So If you have a question, just ask Irwin...